Great info on these turntables, I currently have a SL-QL1 and the related SL-DL1 both in excellent shape, however the built in Phono Interconnects look like they could be upgraded. This should allow the belt to hook onto the motor. Or it could be the tracking sensor that detects the movement of the arm is dirty, or something is mis-adjusted in the electronics (though both are unlikely). The plan in my link might help to see what I mean http://www.globaldistrict.com/_media/companies/company_0/social_images/arm_schematic_vlarge.jpg . I still have my SL-10 from the early 1980s. The recommended tracking force is between 1.8 and 3.5grams Does it move slowly in steps, or does it immediately move quickly towards the centre? The bonus is that you get a proper vintage hi-fi classic, some Japanese hi-fi heritage . Thanks again for your time and posting the previous article. i have now removed all the old grease and the tone arm now moves freely. Unfortunately I didnt think to take any pictures at the time but hopefully my descriptions will be good enough. Its been such a long time since Ive seen the inside of an SL-10 that Im struggling to remember exactly how the drive cord is installed. If you do have the cartridge rebuilt, servicing the SL-10 would be advised. I suspect that your particular turntable is fitted with a sure M92 or V15 (dont quote me on those numbers, theyre just off the top of my head). Connecting with Denon to phono the choice which should be mm or mc. When you say the tracking wont engage, does the the turntable place the arm on the record or does it do absolutely nothing at all? I still had two issues. The easiest, and least damaging way I found to remove the cover was to heat the area around the clamp to soften the plastic and allow it to come free. Under each of these four plugs are screws which, along with those revealed by removal of the platter, must be removed to allow the black, base cover to be lifted. Id also advise performing the tonearm service as above, as rumble can also be caused by the arm dragging on the main guide rail. With the turntable up-side-down, removing that C-Clip can at times be difficult as its impossible to get a screwdriver between it and the base of the motor board. When it gets to the end, it picks up the needle and re sets itself. Unfortunately I cant find a service manual for that particular system so I cant give you exact instructions. That looks better. 240.00. The cables used certainly werent of the best quality and though Im not a proponent of expensive audiophile cables this is certainly an area where these decks could be improved. Expert Stylus I think are also experts on the Shure so if you find you have one of the top models that might be an option too. Edit: no luck for me for the manual. Interesting. This problem usually goes away when I mess with the stylus set-down position adjustment knob, but sometimes I have to keep doing this every time I play my vinyl. Ive always fixed them myself and have a 100% success rate so far, theyre not terribly complex once you understand the logic and design behind their operation. General Discussion Area. With that in mind lets get started. Technics Turntables. If this is the same table, then it is likely the silicone fluid in the arm lifter has dried out. I would like to hear if anyone have removed the muting relay successfully and maybe even considered to bypass the MM/MC switch and just hardwire fix it to MC (or MM)? If that doesnt solve the problem, please let me know which model of turntable you have. (66) 66 product ratings - SFPRT17201K Genuine Technics Tone Arm Rest INC SCREW Fits SL 1200 SL 1210. Thanks! For the main bearing, I use any fully synthetic turntable oil, like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fully-Synthetic-Deck-Turntable-Main-Bearing-Oil-5ml-Needle-point-Dropper-Bottle-/181676650883?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a4cc5b183. This is very perplexing! Regards, peter. If your tonearm motor is operating correctly, the arm should begin to move on its own to the left as it would if it were tracking a record. On most Technics / Panasonic linear mechanisms its mounted on the right-hand side of the arm in the middle, but youll have to take the lid off to find it. The arm should glide smoothly when its all re-assembled. Designed from the ground up, the new SL1200Mk2 is the design that all further models improved upon. Does the stop button still have the same click feel as the other buttons? Regarding the cartridges youre mainly limited to Audio-Technica cartridges now. These small square belts are readily available online. Is this something you recommend and if so any suggestions. Buy Technics DJ Decks & Turntables and get the best deals at the lowest prices on eBay! Thats when I found out about the maintenance that should be performed after all these years tonearm rails cleaned & re-greased & tonearm belt change. it must be something simple or something electronic. Enter your eMail address to subscribe and we'll notify you whenever there's a new post. Try to keep the start button pressed to move the tonearm manually. It must be the optical sensor, but does anyone have a clue what goes wrong with them? It turned out to be the tact switches on the front of the unit. The arm lifter can be depressed so that the arm drops to the platter. The holder is not moving down to allow the arm to set on the record to play. If, after following the instructions in this guide your turntable runs smoothly and sounds good, its generally safe to assume its running within spec and that, for now at least, adjustment isnt necessary. But it was great fun while it lasted. The main cause of mechanical failure in these turntables is dry lubrication. I have attempted to form the notes which I took at the time into something worthy of a blog post which, hopefully, will serve to help others out there with this same turntable. 9.9kg. Im not all that familiar with linear trackers but recently scored a Technics SL J92 at Goodwill for a few bucks. Note this procedure differs somewhat on the SL-10 turntable and its variants. Benefit from the functional features of modern turntables or go for the retro charm of classic models. Sorry to bother you but you saw one of the few who can give me this information. Its an entry level (conical) replacement thats done its job well. You mention in the article you will be following up with a tutorial on the ajustment of the track detection mechanism. Im not sure there is any professional authority on Technics repairs, which is why I advocate DIY. I took the base off my SL1500 to do mine, fairly straight forward once you can see what you're dealing with, its satisfying once you've done it :), https://www.vinylengine.com/library/tec tins.shtml. The arm was released but the arm never stopped moving inward. I believe this has graduated to a tonearm sensitivity issue. Is this just a lubrication problem or something more sinister?? Getting the motor out is sometimes accomplished by removing a bracket, but often it is just pushed into place and held in by the rubber casing. Then lower the lid and ensure it closes properly, pressing down on both front corners and wiggling it back and forth until it is correctly aligned with the turntable base and sitting evenly on the front bumpers with no gaps. Some other models, such as the J300R, have 2 small pins on either side of the turntable at the back which must be removed using a tiny flat bladed screwdriver. You can hear the click for it to down and the track button light flashes as if it is playing ( it also does this when not in program mode when pressing start to play a record from the beginning). After a 6 year manufacturing hiatus, Technics reintroduced the 1200 line in 2016 as a . Hi Ashley I had to replace the tracking cable because it shredded because of the dried up lubricant. I think there must be another sensor involved somehow. Thorens TD160B mkII turntable, SME 3009 tone arm Ortifon Stylus. Spin the platter two full rotations clockwise and then two counter-clockwise. I just came across your site and have learned a bunch! A few turns and some fresh grease, and both were back to making music. Exquisite, reference-class direct drive turntable system, the SL-1000RE-S uses the SP-10RE-S motor unit with a coreless direct drive motor that was developed for the SL-1200G and further improved to provide both high rigidity and reliability. She uses it daily, and I couldnt be happier. The information here guided me through a successful replacement of the entire drive mechanism and tonearm assembly, resulting in a fully functional SL-QL1! During the 70s, 80s and even 90s, Technics produced a huge number of linear tracking turntables - many of which are still in use today, and many of which can also be found on the second-hand market. Youll also want to drop some oil into the motor that drives the tonearm, and check it is spinning freely. Once the grease has been removed, relubricate by applying a thin layer of dry teflon lubricant to the tonearm rail. Enter your eMail address to subscribe and we'll notify you whenever there's a new post. If it is dirty (if grease fell on it during maintenance for example) it may be malfunctioning and the turntable will compensate by trying to drag the arm inwards because it cant see the position of the arm. When I try the turntable it both (a) doesnt quite line up with the edge of the record (it falls short) and (b) falls aggressively. Once inside, remove all grease and lubrication using 1 of many commercially available cleaners alcohol works best. The first, and arguably the most frustrating issue I encountered was the removal of the upper cover. BO carts track down to 1gram. On many models, its necessary to remove the tonearm rail to clean it properly if you dont, youll have to continuously move the tonearm back and forth by hand to ensure all the old grease is remove from its bearings. When the power source stops working, it is generally due to continued used and is commonly caused by a broken circuit or snapped wires. Thank you for the reply. Can I solve the problem? I found some pictures on the net of a 'pl-70'. I purchased my SL-10 when it was new, probably in the late seventies? I managed to get it to work a little bit but can't quite see how to get in there without removing the entire turntable gear mechanism. by 55nomad 06 Mar 2012 21:55, Post There is an optical sensor (sometimes a small electrical microswitch in cheaper models) which detects when the arm needs to move forward and triggers the motor that advances the carriage. Could be a number of things. Hi Ifor firstly, two great turntables there and well worth resurrecting. For good measure I brushed out the optical sensors, which monitor the worm movement. Thanks. You can buy good replica styli from AVA Record Stylus Supplies. Align the bottom of the platter with the motor spindle and place the platter down. The belt does look a bit looser than I would expect so Ill try another new one. Spin the turntable to test the belt. Lift up the platter and remove the belt. I'm re-opening this thread to say I now realise I linked to the wrong video when I was trying to help with this problem. I have a MCS 6725 linear, the repeat light stays on and wont start. Give your existing guide rope a try; you may find that it works. You move the arm forwards towards the centre of the disc by holding the start button and move it backwards by holding the stop button. Depending on the Shure model, you might want to also look at the Jico Neo-SAS if they have one available for your model I run both an EPC 310 mk2 and a particularly fine EPC p 202 with Jico SAS and would not be without either of them. I dont see the lid removal mentioned in the service manual. Thanks. There is nothing blocking the arm. When you release the cover-switch, the platter will stop (eventually continue by inertia) and the tonearm return to its rest. Again, failing that, youll have to investigate the electronics. I have recently acquired an Sl-J300r that had been sitting in a loft for an indeterminate amount of time. Try taping the lid switch shut so that you can operate the mechanism with the lid open. Id also change the tonearm belt if its been sitting. It definitely shouldnt have that amount of play. Try checking continuity with a multimeter between the connections inside the lid and their respective connections inside the base. Once that is done, removing the metal shield over the right hand side of the circuit board provides access to the MC/MM switch for a squirt of deoxit, which cleared up the intermittent dead right channel sound problem for me. you think it is the tonarm? I was sad to see mine go, but I bought it expressly for a friend, not knowing its legendary status, and could not back down in good conscience. Ive followed the advice and got an old j300r partially working. Did you do the guide rails also, or are they running with factory grease? Beyone removing the lid, is there a way to open the lid more (like a book). Certainly a very strange issue. This results in the tonearm falling behind. The 310mc of the sl 10 is a mobile coil. The cueing piston is actuated by a plastic rotary cam. Found your site and initially thought it sounded a bit daunting (dont know why as I had only just taken my Sony SL-C9 Betamax apart and got that working with no guidence) but after a couple of weeks I purchased a new belt and grabbed the bottle of alcohol. I founded Audio Appraisal a few years ago and continue to regularly update it with fresh content. But it is the perfect size for my just for the heck of it garage Frankensteins Monster that I am trying to build with just thrift shop finds (Nakamichi RE 2, Cerwin Vega CV 3000s and now the Technics). Right now I am happily listening to Winelight. Ha. 192 113 r/vinyl 1 mo. I dont think its a sensativity issue, as if that were the case youd find that the arm would skate across the record as increased sensitivity would cause the servo to pull the arm faster than it can track. Hi, thanks for getting back to me, it seems to be an intermittent fault, when its been on for a few hours it sometimes works, its a bit or a weird one, do like this turntable, could you recommend anyone repair company that could look at it? It could be the guide rope that pulls the tonearm along, check that it isnt snagging or stock with dry grease. The worm gear bits seem to be immovable from the base plate assembly. Ask Your Own Consumer Electronics Question Im afraid I havent as yet gotten around to writing the adjustments article, mainly because some of the older models required a service record to adjust them properly and those records are completely unobtainable. I read ptfe for the guiding rod and silicone for the lowering mechanism of the tonearm. It almost seems like its not recognizing the first track and searches only to drop and drag the stylus somewhere on the 2nd or 3rd track. Now to the QL1. 1 nevermind4790 9 yr. ago Technically yes, but with an LP60, Crosley, it's much more noticeable. Unit arrived today, the Guide Rope wire looks as if the previous owner has tried to force the tonearm across and has stripped it of the black woven nylon outer and left the white centre exposed. would appreciate any help or advice you have about this problem regarding this problem regards Phil. Hi had my technics SL QL1for a couple of months, arm moves fine, the stop button though now just wont let you stop the record, so now only way to use it is to press the cue button and lift the lid, the arm moves fine and it moves to the right when lift the lid, do you think the stop button has stopped working? Hello! I guessed it was the IR sensor or sender. Thanks. Some grease can dry quickly if its too thick, so if you have issues with tracking a couple of days after the repair that is the first thing to check. Reference Class Grand Class Ive seen dodgy soldering on the mainboard cause similar issues before, so check for cracks around the joints there and re-solder them as necessary. I think its a stuck tonearm then. Just need to get the drive belt, have found a website that has them and get a needle p-mount style for it. Im afraid I dont know of anyone who will work on these turntables, however the adjustments are listed in the service manual. Thanks. b) You can remove the spindle completely to carefully center and play a record that was pressed off center. Technics Turntable Service Contact us by email at help@electronicsrepairshop.com.au or use the booking form to make an appointment. Low tracking pressure can cause the stylus to skate, which in turn can make the turntable think the arm needs to lift. The cartridge that it came with was a Shure, which I replaced with a moving magnet Audio Technica AT 300P, which sounds pretty good. Dirty arm movement sensor, dried grease in the arm lift mechanism stopping the arm fully dropping, or a faulty position sensor making the deck think theres no record present. a) It's a Technics direct drive changer with a standard 1/2" mount headshell. Thanks, Ashley for this great resource! It does this no matter what mode its in. Despite the problems getting this deck apart, I still maintain that Technics decks are some of the easiest to work on and this wouldve been too if it werent for that record clamp. Or both? 372mm. And for the motor and worm drive of the belt? Hi, I just purchased a SL -10 with an original cartrige. The platter does not turn and the arm does not move. I got a new little belt for it and just put it in, then after getting it all buttoned I find the lid is not closing all the way, A damaged SL-DL1 donated the entire tonearm mechanism and drive motor. The New SA-C600 Premium Class Network CD Receiver; Premium Class Wireless Speaker System OTTAVA S; have ordered some Radio Dial Rope that is a little thinner and some brass crimps. After many disassemble/re-assemble/test sequences and STILL experiencing random auto-stops, Ive discovered the likely culprit is that the worm gear shaft assembly has some serious end play (1-2mm). From the above I have the impression youre talking about 94. Certainly worth repairing, that is one of the best Linear decks they made. Therefore, begin your troubleshooting by inspecting the power source and determining the cause of its failure. . Serious phono pre chops there. Maybe this guy wants a modern, cheap turntable. As you have another plate anyway, try pulling on the rubber damping case or levering it with a screwdriver to see if it will come free. Have you done anything with the tracking pressure3 adjustment, what cartridge are you using, and did you replace the stylus? It sounds to me like the arm is getting stuck, and to compensate the turntable is trying to pull it forward. If it doesn't rotate freely, remove it, clean with alcohol and q-tips then re-lube and reassemble. Is there a service manual available here? Remember to mark the current position of any potentiometers before making adjustments so you have a reference point if you make things worse. Re: Arm won't lower. Build quality and efficiency of design of SL-10 is simply breathtaking even today or rather especially today. These Technics tables have a system in place to detect the record size, and to also prevent you dropping the stylus onto the mat with no record present. Hope this helps. Just reading about your issue. Same line that is used fir beading projects. I like Audio-Technicas P Mount cartridges, there are some stylus upgrades available for them too which take the performance to a completely new level. Still with me? Subscribe to our newsletter. All this particular turntable required was the usual maintenance, as detailed in my post regarding Technics linear tracking turntable maintenance. Hi, Thanks for this Rick, very useful advice. Nice old table! Both suffered from the same problem; the arm gear had stuck. Any ideas where I might be able to source one, or at least what the part number is? I removed the motor and took it apart. Is this a lubrication issue or something else? With regards your lid not closing, this can be a bit of a fiddly one to correct. Now, I hit the play button, it no longer spins the record. On the SL-J300R would that be the guide rope on the photo ? Thank you. With the arm dropped, use a finger to gently nudge the end of the arm to the left. So, it is not like it is wore out. The guide rails, if running with factory grease or no grease at all, may be sticking. It moves back to the home position though when I lift the lid. I am Christos from Greece and thank you very much for your time. Alex what model of turntable are you using? I think these may be different to the slj300r tonearms you also wrote about. The best thing to replace that with is probably nylon string or radio dial string. Did you strip and clean the mechanism while it was open as well as replacing the belt? I have a Technics SL DD22 turntable I purchased some time ago and the tone arm will not lower on to the record. 25.2K subscribers This is a video showing you how you can change your tone arm on a technics SL 1200/1210 turntable. Glad to have found your blog and someone with background in old Technics Linear Drive Turntables. Brands and Makes. That's it! Thank you for this site! My technics sl-3 is having major issues. Great Savings & Free Delivery / Collection on many items . 100k or 200k or 300k? The turntable was started and the play button held down and the cue button was pressed midway through. c) It's a nearly indestructable Technics direct drive. Nostalgia is hard to resist. What am i doing wrong? Without seeing it myself I cant fathom why its not working. The service manual explains the correct routing for the rope. most of the Technics tables have a small microswitch at the end of the tonearms travel to tell the turntable that the arm is in the resting position. I've run into an issue that I can't find any information on. Also there is a long metal arm in between the tone arm guide rope, visible in your photo above, that is attached to a switch, that for my money does nothing at all right now. The end of the switch pokes out through a hole in the upper cover, and is pressed against the rear of the turntable when the lid is closed. Hopefully this information is useful to some of you out there though I wont be held responsible for any damage you should cause yourself, your turntable, or to any other human being, animal, or inanimate object as a result of following these instructions. This is a wonderful turntable and a novel bit of TT history. Areas like the cable guide, plastic worm gear for the linear tracking mechanism, and the record clamp. Release date: Summer 1978. No, the SL-5 uses Technics second iteration of the mechanism which was simplified compared to the SL-10. If, like me, you opened the turntable with it resting on its lid and the buttons facing you, the part youre looking to heat is the part closest to you on the left, nearest the arm. Technics SL-J300R Linear Tracking Mechanism. Simple Design with Functional Beauty. Onkyo 875; Panasonic 42PZ85; Quad L-ite 5.1 (Bi-amped); Sky HD+; Sony S350; Apple TV; Technics SL 1210 mkII; Denon DL 110; Sumiko Headshell; Chord Silver HDMI; Van Damme blue & Black speaker cable; Mark Grant Sub Lead; D DGZDGZ Its lubricated with a thick grease that damps the lowering action, that may have dried up. Thats all for now e sure to share your maintenance tips in the comments below! Ive no doubt that the Sure is a good cartridge, however if it was years ago it too is probably due a new stylus by now. Try lifting the arm with the cue lever and move it to the center of the platter. Usually the photosensors in the lid are dirty, or the switches in the base need cleaning with an electrical contact cleaner. I noted that you recommended dry teflon lubricant, which is not something Im familiar with (can you recommend one? Im wondering if the wiring between the lid and the base may be at fault. Put a drop of thin oil in the motor that drives the tonearm if you havent already. I believe yours has a tracking light, hopefully it isnt that which has failed. You can find them on eBay. It is important that they take care if the board is removed and replaced, as the switches can become brittle and fragile over the years and can be easily broken. Hello Ashley, I hope youre well since you didnt reply yet. There is also a microswitch usually mounted on the base of the turntable near the hinge that detects whether the lid is open or closed. I diagnosed a worn belt so I replaced it. If it's not then the liquid silicone inside the cueing bar could be replaced. Apply heat for around 30 seconds be careful to get things warm but not too hot. Might go and look for 200k. Don't know what proper setting on back knob should be. My table accidentally got unplugged while playing. Is the SL 5 one of those variants? Note that the QL1 uses infrared record detection and wont start with no record, or a clear or coloured record, unless the covers are on and theres either something covering the platter holes or the slider switch on the inner lid cover is slid across. When not touching the arm, it should remain perfectly still in the drop position when the lid is up. As you can move the arm manually with the forward and back buttons, Id probably check the tonearm microswitches, in particular the one that is closed when the tonearm reaches the point where it needs to proceed forwards. A note about aftermarket modifications :- Please note that when a request has been made to modify, e.g. Its been great, but sometimes it wont play the first track on an lp record. Complete Turntable with a Built-in Phono Equalizer and Cartridge. This applies to the cueing piston, also. If the belt is just slightly loose, you may be able to restore it with some rubber revitalizer. I have Sony PSFl770 linear turntable. This applies to the cueing piston, also. The linear tracking mechanism is inverted, allowing the arm to sit above the plinth and slide along a guide rail beneath. You should be able to see how the mechanism works if you operate the turntable with the lid off and observe the arm from the side. r/turntables Picked up a beautiful Kenwood KD-500 w/Grace G-707 arm this week. Looking at the service manual it appears that bearing oil or similar needs to go somewhere near the base but I am not sure. I use any white lithium grease for the main rail and the gears. Early Technics SL 1200 turntable. If not, perform the maintenance in this guide. Id stored this machine for 25 years on top of a book shelf, after an eBay find. Sounds like it would be worth it to get it refurbished if possible to have a back up. HI Ashley I have a Technics SL-L1 that I purchased back in the 1980s. I have a technics sl-5 I have one SL10 whose tonearm drops smoothly and slowly onto the record, and I am hoping to improve another otherwise excellent model whose tonearm just drops onto the record. 4) The tonearm should be back to its balance point, floating horizontally. Quick question who is the authority on restorations for the SL-10? The correct video, which tells you all about the arm height control ring, starts here but it's in two parts and the crucial part is at the beginning of Part 2: How to service/repair/replace the height adjustment on a technics 1200/1210 MK 2 turntable part 2 , Forum Policies, Rules, and Terms of Service. Had to tread the cable around, have patients. IIRC some models require a special adjustment record but you can get by with trial and error, providing you have the right equipment and knowledge to work safely around the electronics. The problem with these turntables is that everything has to be exactly right for them to function. To do so, remove the screw located on the side of the cartridge near where it connects into the arm, and while also carefully supporting the arm gently wiggle it out of its slot. ago It supplies poor quality, basic accessories to get you underway but the intention, at least from an audiophile perspective, is to bin these ten-a-penny items (this is a 3k turntable, right?) I checked last night and found that I had replaced the cartridge many years ago with a Shure Universal, not sure the model number as I just looked from the top of the turntable through the glass. Last time I tried to use it, everything worked fine except the tone arm would randomly get stuck and stop moving along its track. i have a technics sl-qd33 k turntable that powers up but the start/stop button flashes and i cant get it to work. This is the best turntable I have ever had but its giving me a problem at the moment. Issue 3: The Tonearm Drops Too Fast If the tonearm is lowering too fast, this can also be a symptom of an issue with the bridge, so try the bridge adjustment screw as a first quick check. . Its normally on the arm carriage, sometimes covered by a label. Wonderful decks! The final word on the SL-QL1 project: Then the motor that drives the platter moves a little. The Technics SL-23 is a lovely turntable and I highly recommend you keep an eye out for one if you're in the market for an affordable and well-engineered deck. Thanks. Youll need to take the lid off, at which point youll have access to the mechanism. The SL-1200G is a turntable Starter Kit. Can you confirm based on this schematic (http://www.globaldistrict.com/_media/companies/company_0/social_images/arm_schematic_vlarge.jpg ) that its well part 94 and not within 105 that needs to be cleaned and siliconed? At the high end of the Technics lineup was the SP-10 MKII which had a hefty price tag of $499.95. I purchased a Technics SL-QL1 off of eBay for $79, knowing fully that it was not in working order. Otherwise it isn't far removed from other Technics designs and as such suffers the usual problem of dried lubrication hindering . What should I be looking at next? The middle of the adjustment is 1.25 grams, the upper limit (a quarter turn clockwise) is 1.5 grams and a quarter turn anti-clockwise is 1.0 grams. would that prevent the paltter turning as well then? There was no need to remove the vision window. Firstly the standard tonearm can be changed for a much higher performance Origin Live arm. This is an interesting issue. Hadnt thought of using that, great suggestion. Looks like part 94 on the schematic is the one you want, part 105 would appear to be the electromagnet that releases the arm. Thank you! I realize this is probably answered in the guide, but since this is so specific I thought Id ask. If the arm cannot move out, that switch isnt released and the turntable wont start up. I have had it about 16 years after I found it still sealed in its original box on the tip I worked at! Try to trigger the switch manually: open the lid, mask the 3 optical sensors with tape, push the white cover-switch (left behind the platter) with your finger and while keeping it fully pressed hit the start button. An SL-10 serviced correctly wont suffer this problem, so I would recommend leaving the clamp mechanism intact and service the deck properly. These plastic clips hold the cover firmly in placed -and cannot be unclipped unless the transparent window is removed which, ironically requires the upper cover be removed first. These are 40 years old now, and electronic components do fail and drift in value as they age. Look at the side of the cartridge body (where the stylus fits) and see if you can spot the brand / model information of your particular cartridge. Using an Ortofon TMC-200 which I can only recommend! I myself have owned countless Technics linear tracking tables and each one has been meticulously serviced and restored to full working order. It pulls the tonearm out a little bit, effectively balancing the stylus forces in the groove. Finally, there are two, horseshoe shaped rubber plugs (toward the front by the switches and the top cover latch points) and two, round, rubber plugs at each side of the rear, toward the hinge points. I think the motor was bound but seems to work freely now. You can't set the tonearm down on an empty platter. What are the correct measurements for the drive belt? Yet within this compact package are a computer and precision tonearm drive system. 7.95. The program record play feature works great though. Do you have any suggestions? The behaviour you describe would occur if that mechanism was sticking or if a grease of too high a viscosity had been used to lubricate it. Difficult to say without removing the board beneath. All that remained was to clean and relubricate the mechanism, and replace the small square-section belt which runs the mechanism. But otherwise the mechanisms are similar. Technics SL1200/1210 MK2. I have owned this TT since new in 1974 and has been an excellent TT. If youre handy with a multi-meter and capable of carefully making voltage checks, the service manual is readily available online and shows the voltage points for the servo system. But even though I found many items I needed online, I dont think I would have had the confidence to tackle it, without your article. Thank you for the write up, it helped a lot, particularly the trick with a heat gun. If the issue persists, remove the main circuit board and spray the pushbuttons and switches with contact cleaner. Tell me if you need advice, I would write a post about it. In a future post, well discuss adjustment of the track detection mechanisms, as well as maintenance of fully and semi-automatic pivotal arm turntables. Electronics Technician: Ron Winston The back knob is the tracking pressure. I need one myself. Id start by cleaning and lubricating the mechanism anyway, regardless of whether it moves. Thanks Karl. Now that the holidays are over, I had time to try what you suggested. The stylus is almost 20 years old, but doesnt have 20 years of normal playing time on it. Lift the lid of the turntable and engage the aforementioned lid detection switch by pressing it in and sticking it in place with a piece of tape. It was playing fine right after I bought it, but it then stopped completely. 1. They should be fine. Otherwise if you have a multimeter, check the servo gain adjustments according to the service manual which will determine if the arm movement sensor is working. Last week, the platter and tone arm on my SL-L3 bought in Germany in 1988 and more or less in continuous use just froze. Is it in the AUX position? I started with cleaning and lubricating that on the accessible areas but can't quite see how to get into the brass post that controls the arm lifter. The tonearm doesnt drop particularly slow. Hi Ashley, Meet the budget-friendly Technics SL-1500C that will only set you back 899 / $999 / AU$2499. The preamplifier in the SL-10 is designed to add the extra stage of amplification needed for a moving coil cartridge to a moving magnet amplifier. Any amount is gratefully received! One odd thing I noticed is under the rubber platter mat (which is mostly dried out now) there were some oil patches. I have a BSR linear turntable XL-1200. Im not familiar with that deck but if it has the arm mounted in the lid its not impossible that the wiring has failed somewhere. I have an SL-5 that has worked flawlessly for years, went into storage, wouldnt work and upon dissection revealed a frayed Drive cord/rope The tone arm needs to be cleaned and re-greased for sure.It has hung up in the same place on the first song of three different albums. There is a damper (like the shock absorber on a car) and it can get gummed up. Youll probably find however, on the J300R at least, that fixing up the mechanics will bring the turntable back into full working order. Any advice? As youre slotting the upper cover into place, be sure to press in that switch with the aid of a small screwdriver as failure to do so will render the turntable inoperable and cause you many hours of frustration. Remove the rail, thoroughly clean both it and the inner bearing of the arm through which it slides and lubricate with a thin and even layer of white lithium grease. Ive learned quite a bit about these amazing machines by reading the threads on this site and through the act of taking two of these apart. excellent! Many thanks for your advice. Thanks for your response. Everything else I have Micro Seiki DD40, AR XA, Empire 208, B&O RX2 (scored at the same Goodwill but I am loathe to use too much because the cart is so rare), and an old Philips 777 are traditional pivot arms. These types of fluids are used in those machines and they may be able to help. If this doesn't work, then the most probable cause is the damping capability of the cueing lever. The mechanism is a simple one and the weight of the arm pushes that bar down. Interesting issue. Can you please tell me where to get the tonearm drive belt for one of these? Thank you. 2 bids. Take it apart an see if you can spot either of those issues. I don't know if it's possible to do on your model specifically but most decent quality tables work that way. This system also improves the tonearm's ability to track warped records. General Board. The plunge assist part you mention is the correct one, youll spot it easily when you open the deck and look at the mechanics surrounding the pivot point of the arm. Grab a copy of the service manual from Vinyl Engine, and disassemble the lower half of the turntable to remove the main spindle bearing. There is the "trickle down" SL1200GR version for $1700 which also gets you a solid starter audiophile table. Mine only has 2 of these remaining, And want to know how this affects proper function. Is that in the 102 103 105 part (spring with plunge assist) that needs relubrification or the 94 part on the manual? I bought a cosmetically sound but neglected example (complete with midi system) to replace one I had as a teenager. Thanks for the pointer to Mike Powell. I have finished checking everything that you have said to look at the lift platform does drop clear of the arm, I am using the original mat, there is no grease on the optical sensor, and the servo gain adjustments are ok, and still the arm still wont drop completely. It looks rather like a chamber with a spring and a plunger through it. I would start by taking off the lid cover and checking the photosensors, as if it plays a 12 inch disc I doubt the circuit is failing completely. When the lid was reinstalled was anything blocking the arm? Youll need to clean out the main bearing fully before applying that bearing oil as it is different to the stock oil. Some of the turntables have a screw on either side where the lid hinges and 3 screws along the front edge of the linear mechanism (one of which is underneath the end of the tonearm when its in the home position). Ive never heard of an instance of someone forcing the tonearm causing the outer cover to strip. Havent adjusted servo gain yet, so that is likely next. Hi, I have a big problem on my SL-QL1 turntable.The arm drive rope is broken. To return the arm, release the switch. Would it be bad to to sort of soak it with alcohol with a qtip and then relubricate it without disassembling, or would I damage other component? Fired it back up again recently and there is a rumble, much like you would get when playing a warped record. The rumble is probably caused by dry oil in the main bearing; and to fix, youll need to relubricate the bearing with some suitable bearing oil, such as the SRM-Tech black oil. 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